Cruise-Rail trip: Cruise Rail trip March 26 to April 1 2019

Tuesday 26 March

A beautiful day to leave Sydney on Majestic Princess. This is our first Princess cruise, so we were keen to see what was on offer.

Embarkation was very smooth, and we were on board within half an hour. Our cabin was ready as we boarded so a quick drop off of luggage then up to the buffet for some refreshments.

We took a short tour of a few of the pool and bar areas. Then it was off to muster. Being a large ship with no promenade deck, muster is held in the inside spaces. Done and dusted, we changed for dinner and headed off for drinks. It is always pleasant sitting on a ship enjoying drinks overlooking the Opera House.

Looking down between the Seawalk and the deck

On the Seawalk

Solarium

Hollywood Conservatory

Wednesday 27 March

Different experience for breakfast and lunch in the bistro/buffet to what we are used to. The seating is all on the sides to take advantage of the ocean views. The food is tucked away in central ‘corridors’. Did not feel there was as much variety as on Royal Caribbean but all very fresh. Perhaps more Asian offerings at lunch as this is a repositioning cruise back to China.

The ship layout hasn’t grabbed me as most of it is ‘internalised’, so no traditional promenade deck and the only outdoor areas are pool decks. The Hollywood Conservatory up on deck 17 aft is a very pleasant place to sit comfortably.

We spent the day exploring and relaxing. We even went for a dip in the solarium pool. Early evening, we had an information session with our tour guides. Then it was an early dinner before heading to the pool deck to watch the musical fountain.

We gained an hour travelling to Brisbane so there was no rush in the morning.

The Bakery, part of the Marketplace buffet

Stairwells were not used, but I liked this decoration

Thursday 28 March

Disembarked smoothly. Soon on our way into the city. We left our luggage at the hotel, as we were too early to check in, and headed out. Rain threatened but the occasional shower did not interfere with our day. We walked to Eagle St wharf and had coffee riverside then we hopped on the free City Hopper ferry to the wharf near the Maritime Museum. The rain held off once again as we walked along the river to Southbank.

We had explored Southbank on a previous visit so waited for the next City Hopper. Next stop, North Quay. We did some shopping in Queen St Mall before returning to our hotel for a rest.

We met our Friend Margaret in the early evening for drinks and tapas before an early night. It’s a 5am start for our rail adventure.

Friday 29 March

Map of our train route. The section from Werris Creek to Gulgong through Binnaway was altered because of flooded tracks at Dunedoo

After our early start it was exciting to board our heritage train at Roma St Station, Brisbane. Our seats were a bit of a tight squeeze, but we were free to get up and walk through the carriages. It was delightful to do that because each carriage was different.

Leaving Roma St Station

All aboard!

The dining car

An outside viewing area

Heritage decor

The buffers

Exit stairs, well secured

We took a route out through suburban Brisbane towards Ipswich and Toowoomba. Passing through the Lockyer Valley, we could still see signs of the devastation from the floods in 2011 when Toowoomba’s main street became a torrent and ultimately Brisbane was flooded badly too. On the way we saw many lovely Queenslander homes and mobs of kangaroos all bounding away with the noise of the diesel engine.

A new road being built

Beautiful heritage buildings

The famous trestle bridge near Gatton which became famous during the 2011 floods

This home still bears the scars of the high water level. It is high on the bank too.

The path of the flood down Lockyer Creek

A 20m stop at Spring Bluff, a station at the top of the range, gave us a chance to get off and stretch our legs. This station was also devastated by the 2011 floods as the water poured down the range into the Lockyer Valley. It also gave us an opportunity to take photos of the train itself.

During the flood

The same stairs today

After a beautiful lunch at the Toowoomba Station café we were back on the train. This time though, we were soon on the freight only tracks. Train spotters were in abundance, setting up cameras on bridges and at rail crossings. Even following the train to take photos and video along the route.

Various train spotters

The fertile black soil of the plains between Toowoomba and Warwick were in various stages of planting and harvest. Cattle, sheep and horses near homesteads watch our progress as we passed. Younger animals scooted off in the opposite direction to the noise of our loco. Beautiful homesteads peeked out from behind their protective circle of trees. An occasional one was a sight to see.

We continued to be amused as one particularly enthusiastic train spotter kept up with the train and constantly overtook the train to set up camera at another crossing. Or were they filming this unique trip? I went to find out when we arrived at Warwick Station as there they were taking photos of the engine up close. They were simply enthusiasts who had found out about our itinerary and put it up on their Facebook page. They said we would have spotters all along our route.

After arriving at Warwick Station we were taken by bus to visit Glengallan Homestead where we had afternoon tea and a tour of the partially restored homestead. Built 1867-68 for Scottish settler John Deuchar a notable merino sheep grazier it lay abandoned after 1949 and fell into serious disrepair. Since 1993 the Glengallan Homestead Trust has steadily rebuilt the house and grounds. The tour was very interesting and shone a light on the chances taken by early settlers who farmed vast tracts of land and often failed.

The abandoned homestead

Regions of the Darling Downs

The homestead today

Looking east towards Cunninghams Gap

Saturday 30 March

Not quite so early today, but we still had to get away by 7.30am on the train. Being a rail trip, we have to keep to a timetable.

Soon out of Warwick we were in sheep and cattle country. However, it was the large numbers of kangaroos which took our attention. We stopped briefly at Inglewood, just missing a shower of rain.

Our fellow travellers

A shower passed through just before our arrival in Inglewood

There was a slight hold up with cattle across the tracks further along.

We had different train enthusiasts following us today They would have to be enthusiastic, as intermittent showers gave way to torrential downpours. The countryside was flat and had been inundated so there was a lot of standing water. So good for the drought affected farmers. Still lots of ‘roos, we saw emus too. It was interesting to hear at one point we were following a section of the rabbit proof fence. Sadly, it also proves a hazard for kangaroos, and we saw a few caught in the wires. However, there were also some large holes pushed through. In fact, we saw big strong ‘roos charging the fence to get through.

The young man in blue is partially disabled, but he has his own train enthusiast YouTube channel

We disembarked the train at Goondiwindi. This was where we farewelled our heritage Queensland train. We boarded coaches for the short trip to North Star. The reason for this is because the Boggabilla branch line to Moree is closed and now in a state of disrepair.

Cotton

Cotton farm equipment

Farewell to our train engine

North Star store

Welcome to our new train for the remainder of the journey

After boarding our new train at North Star, we continued down the Boggabilla line to Moree then on to Narrabri. We were in quite late because of a hold up waiting for the Moree train to come through. The train spotter who had followed us from Inglewood had double joy being able to photograph both together.

Sunday 31 March

A relaxed start to today. The train left at 9.30. First up though we were advised of a change to the itinerary. This was in fact a good news story. As a result of welcome rain in the area around Dunedoo, the rail route was under water and damage to the track made it unsafe to travel on. So, although the re-routing means we cannot visit Binnaway, it does mean that we will traverse the Bylong tunnel in both directions. Not to mention seeing another scenic area around Murrurundi and Scone. Good news too for the farmers welcoming the rain, I’m sure.

Looking towards Murrurundi

Lots of horse studs in this area of the Upper Hunter

The Bylong tunnel is 1975m long and is the longest railway tunnel in New South Wales. It was built with a relatively small outline and ventilation is a problem meaning trains can be no more frequent than one every 20 minutes in order to allow for adequate air purging. Coal train locos must shut down air-conditioning, close all windows and have air breathing apparatus available. Our train, as a passenger train, is only permitted to traverse the tunnel because is has a lower emission diesel rail motor.

Entering the Bylong tunnel. A very small profile.

Exit of the Bylong Tunnel

After a brief stop at Gunnedah for provisions (we have been very well fed on this trip), we were on our way again. Despite the standing water from the downpour it is so sad to see rivers run dry. It really highlights the desperate situation with the current drought.

Another brief stop at Werris Creek allows us to stretch our legs and take in the station and surrounding countryside. Train travel is so much better than travelling on a coach. We can walk around and move between carriages. Being accommodated overnight at motels is also more comfortable than sleeping on the train.

An opportunity to visit the driver cabin at the rear of the train was taken up with enthusiasm. It was interesting seeing the countryside disappearing away behind us. As we climbed through the range the tracks wound their way off in the distance.

With our changed itinerary it was a different perspective we saw of the countryside we had driven through just over 12 months ago. Murrurundi, Scone, Aberdeen and Muswellbrook were all towns we had passed through on that trip.

Our route was not the only one with disruption. Overnight rain closed the Blue Mountains line at Springwood with a rock fall. A freight train derailed near Goulburn, causing havoc on the line to Melbourne. We were possibly quite fortunate that we were not directly affected by the weather.

Another short stop, this time in Muswellbrook, we returned to the train and reversed the seats to take off once more. Our carriage was now the front of the train as we headed west then north to our overnight stop in Gulgong. We were aware our journey would be interrupted by the passing of coal trains, but it is a real eye opener how much coal is transported on these freight only lines. We are privileged to be able to use these lines as passengers.

Approaching coal train

Man-made mountain

Goulburn River

Flowing very fast

Monday 1 April

On a tight schedule today. We made it away just ahead of time. A cold crisp morning leaving Gulgong, but the sun was shining on this, our last day. Mobs of kangaroos still bounding away from the tracks as we passed. Just before we entered Gulgong last night one bounded the wrong way. A perpetual hazard.

Our trip back to Muswellbrook was a stop start affair as we slowed and stopped for numerous coal trains. The empty ones returning to the mines at Ulan and further north around Gunnedah.

The Goulburn River, swollen from the heavy downpour on Saturday, had dropped since we followed along its path yesterday, It was now easy to see how much force of water had passed along as vegetation which had taken root in the previously dry riverbed, was bowed and bent by the sheer force of the water.

Goulburn River lower levels overnight

A coal train which came acropper

Dams are full for a while now

After a lovely lunch in the park at Muswellbrook station, supplied by the local CWA, we were off again. Before reaching Singleton, we were once again at a standstill. This time it’s more serious. A train had failed ahead of us. Looks like it will be another long day.

We watched some birds while waiting for the coal train

The Hunter River at Muswelbrook

The XPT on its way to Moree

On our way once more, we passed Liddell and Bayswater Power Stations and some of the Hunter region’s major coal mines. Those two power stations supply 30% of the State’s power. It was very interesting passing the coal loading facilities, not to mention the abundance of coal trains both full and empty.

After a delicious afternoon tea with scones, jam and cream, at the Rail Motor Society’s facility at Paterson, it was into the urban network for our run into Sydney. What an adventure this has been. If you enjoy train travel this is something to watch out for.